Monday, April 28, 2008

It's not bought, it's Stollen

I'll admit it: I'm a carb lover. Whether pastas, breads, rice or potatoes, I adore carbs in all their warm, gooey glory. Occasionally -- even though I often prefer a clean, uncluttered flavor -- I get the urge to make something sinfully rich and obscenely heavy. When that urge hits, I usually wind up making Stollen.

While traditionally a Christmas dessert bread, Stollen has been gaining popularity outside of the holiday traditions. Although the exact recipe used varies from maker to maker, one constant remains: it relies on candied fruits for its dense, sugar-rich appeal. When I make it, I prefer to use a mixture of candied and preserved fruit in order to cut down on what can become cloyingly sweet.

1/4 c candied cherries
1/4 c candied citron
1/4 c raisins or Zante currants
1/4 c dried apricots, diced
1/4 c candied lemon peel
1/4 c candied orange peel
1 T fresh lemon zest
1/2 c dark rum
1/2 c castor sugar
1/4 t salt
3-4 c high-protein flour
1 pkg dry yeast
1/4 c toasted almonds
1/4 t almond extract
1/2 c whole milk
1/2 c butter
3 eggs

In a glass bowl, combine all of the fruit and the candied peel, and pour over it the rum. I've found that Cruzan Black Strap holds up quite well, and it lends a delicious hint of chocolate to the mix. Cover the bowl with cling film and place in the refrigerator for 12-48 hours.

When ready to make the Stollen, combine the yeast with 1 t castor sugar and 1/4 c warm water. Make sure the water's approximately 110° F, so that the yeast will bloom. The bloom usually takes about 10 minutes, depending on the warmth of the water, and the ambient temperature of the room.

While the yeast is blooming, take the fruit out of the refrigerator and strain it through a fine-meshed sieve or cheesecloth. Retain the rum, and place the fruit on clean lint-free kitchen toweling or paper toweling. Do not squeeze the fruit, but allow any excess rum to separate naturally. At this time, melt the butter either in the microwave or in a small saucepan on the stove.

In a separate bowl, combine the melted butter, the milk, the eggs, the retained rum, the sugar, the salt, the almond extract, the yeast, and 1/2 c warm water, mixing well. Add to this the flour, and mix until a soft dough is formed. You want the dough to be smooth, not tearing: that indicates that you've over-mixed it. I prefer high-protein flour because I've found it to offer a chewier, heavier texture which fits the nature of this bread.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly-floured board or countertop and knead for five minutes. If the dough remains sticky, add more flour to the board and gently work it in. As you knead, fold in the candied fruit, the lemon zest, and the almonds, incorporating them as evenly as possible.

Take yet another bowl -- the largest one yet -- and lightly oil the inner surface. Work the dough into a ball and roll it in the bowl until the entire surface has been covered with oil, then cover the bowl with a sheet of waxed paper and a clean kitchen towel and leave it to rise in a warm area until it has approximately doubled in size.

Once the dough has doubled, punch it down, then separate it into two equal portions. Roll out each portion into 10" x 8" rectangles, approximately 1/2" thick. Fold the Stollen into uneven thirds lengthwise: the center section will be approximately 4", with each folded 'flap' approximately 3". There should be an inch overlap in the center. Pinch the seams firmly so they don't separate when raising or baking. Place the Stollen on a Silpat or parchment paper covered baking tray, and brush it with more melted butter, then allow to proof in a warm place until it has approximately doubled in size.

When the bread is ready, preheat your oven to 375° F and bake the Stollen until golden brown, approximately 30-45 minutes. Remove from the baking sheet and allow to cool completely on wire racks before cutting.

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